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kirk44
New Member

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 01/25/2011 :  3:33:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi my first post. Is anyone here running Ford E450 6.0 engines. This particular bus is an 04. Clean coolant and oil. We have wheel chair corbiel body busses. Under a load rear heat is fine. stop the bus and temp cools right off in the rear. I'm sure theres an issue because theres no booster pump. My concern is modifying factory setup and being liable. I was with Laidlaw for 14 years and now with first Student lets just say I'm a stressed out service manager from the northeast.

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
4559 Posts

Posted - 01/25/2011 :  4:04:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I wouldn't worry too much about liability if you are just adding a booster pump. It's not a change to safety oriented equipment or structure after all. Personally, I'd put it under the hood if there is room, that way any leakage couldn't contact bus passengers. Proper wiring and circuit protection, documentation and you are all set!

I would worry about the FS higher ups demanding to know who bought a $120 pump and why!!!! (Love the signature on your post)
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Newman
New Member

7 Posts

Posted - 01/25/2011 :  5:01:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit Newman's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Did this problem recently start? What year is the engine?
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Fastback
Top Member

1500 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  05:04:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Beware that the problem could be air or combustion gases in the cooling system.

Why yes, the ORIGinal CHARGER is a Fastback
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kirk44
New Member

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  05:33:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
These busses have been doing this since we got them. They are 2004 and 2005 ford E450 vans. 6.0 with Corbiel bodies. When you have 15 kids body heat takes over. These are Wheel chair busses so we have 2 or 3 kids back there and the small heater never recovers when the lift door is opened. I checked coolant and engine oil they are clean. I'm trying to see if I can install some kind of seperate electrical heater. The coolant lines that feed the rear heat are run under the bus. We wraped them in insulation tape but that didn't help much. The main problem is when the bus is idling it starts to cool down and then the lift door is opened and there goes the heat. Then someone sticks a hand on the front heat then the rear heat and says the heat back here isn't working. If I can get a heating unit back there that won't depend on the engine to stay warm I'll be good. I don't want to run a fuel burning system. Any ideas on a rear electrical heater?

If you cant do it safely dont do it. But don't have any overtime or go over budget
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eicsbus
Senior Member

Canada
126 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  05:52:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
do u use a fast idle when stopped

I.C. NO FUTURE


formally ,,,,wright11
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kirk44
New Member

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  06:11:57 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi The bus is not equipped with a fast idle. The company I work for never over specs a bus. This bus would be fine in the south east not the north east. The rear heater is the size of a shoe box and fed by lines running under the bus. Monday we had single digit temps and a parent complained about the rear heat and now these busses have been exposed. I really think an electric heater might be the way to go.

If you cant do it safely dont do it. But don't have any overtime or go over budget
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Wolf0r
Top Member

USA
2181 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  07:14:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kirk check and make sure the reservoir hose is not twisted or kinked. It runs down to the engine. I have fixed two that the A/C installer had twisted the hose shut when he put the tank back on. The rez will stay full and never feed the engine.

“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson
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BJ Henderson
Advanced Member

USA
280 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  07:41:09 AM  Show Profile  Send BJ Henderson an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Check to make sure you coolant level is correct and not to much coolant concentration. Too much coolant and not enough water can cause this.

CMTT,CMAT,CMBT
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sambrutay
Advanced Member

United States
271 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  09:06:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The 6.0 does not flow enough coolant @ idle to meet our state spec. That is why it must be equiped with a boost pump. This is a common problem. also when the EGR cooler takes a dump it puts exhaust in your coolant sys and you end up with no flow in your heater system because you have a big air lock in the rear heater. But sounds more like the first.

Bruce
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kirk44
New Member

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  09:27:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Bruce I had a feeling thats were I would wind up, having to install booster pumps. Did you have to install your own or were they factory installed? Either way can you let me know where they were installed. I'm thinking driver side frame rail after the shut off valves as its pretty tight under the hood. Thanks, again

If you cant do it safely dont do it. But don't have any overtime or go over budget
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sambrutay
Advanced Member

United States
271 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  09:30:02 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ours are factory installed. These are in an IC CE300. Not a van conversion.

Bruce
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kirk44
New Member

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2011 :  09:35:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks bruce, Our IC busses have the booster installed also. On the fire wall behind the air filter housing. Easiest way to go looks to be the frame rail for a van. Thanks, again

If you cant do it safely dont do it. But don't have any overtime or go over budget
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mastertech
Advanced Member

274 Posts

Posted - 01/28/2011 :  2:03:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit mastertech's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I feel a booster pump is mandatory on a 6.0 in a ford van. Coolant flow pretty stops at idle and the fans will suck all the residual heat out of the cores in seconds as you will note the vent temps go up and down with throttle position. Ive found coolant level is critical as the heater hoses that go over the front of the radiator are higher than the coolant bottle so you need to be a as full as possible . Id go a little over the full mark for sure. If you have a booster pump make sure its wired to flow the correct way. Yes the factory makes mistakes.
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Newman
New Member

7 Posts

Posted - 01/28/2011 :  4:36:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit Newman's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Have you thought of wiring up fast idle and seeing if it solves the problem? That sounds cheaper and easier than installing a booster pump.
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